Ischgl

A Word about this Destination...

Ischgl is the largest ski resort in Austria, situated on the border of Switzerland. Well known in Europe for the apres-ski scene, this can be easily avoided if you're no longer a 22 year-old frat boy or girl (or whatever the Austrian equivalent of that would be). The resort is really buried in the Tirolean Alps - here I feel very far away from everything. From the top of one of the peaks you can see the snow-covered Swiss Alps stretch out for as far as the eye can see. Fantastic!

Foodwise, some interesting Austrian Alpine specialties: Knodel (dumplings) are a big favorite and are often served drowning in English cream. You also find Almdudler (similar to the Swiss Rivella) which is like an elderflower gingerale. Their tag line is: If there isn't Almdudler, I'm going home!

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

A Word on this Destination...

Contrary to popular belief, Santa Claus does not live at the North Pole, rather in this town about 45 minutes north of Stuttgart, Germany. Here you will find an incredibly well preserved fortified town originating from the 1200's that has been used as a location for several films including Chitty Chitty Bang Bank and some Japanese film (you'll observe loads of Japanese tourists here because of this film).

You will also find a tourist snack called a schneeballen, which is basically a fried knot of wontons dipped in chocolate or cinnamon sugar or whatever this could be dipped in. The town is known for their many Christmas shops which are open year round (except at Christmas as we unfortunately discovered). Nevertheless, I would recommend this for a one night stopover if you find yourself on a road trip through this part of Germany.

Hotels

The Burg Hotel

65 is the minimum age to qualify for employment at this hotel apparently. We were greeted by a very sweet holder lady dressed in a 'traditional' bavarian housedress. The hotel is located on the foundation of the fortress wall about 3 minutes walk to the central square. In spite of the central location it was somehow tucked away in a quiet nook.

Bottom Line: very charming, 135 euros for a large room including breakfast, spic and span thanks to old timer work ethic.

Sites

Rathaus Belltower

Must do: climb the tower of the town hall in the main square. This is not handicap friendly by any means given that it is the original medieval tower with a tiny wooden staircase and stop and go lights for high traffic days since it is only wide enough for single file passage. What a laugh to get to the top and discover a lady in a booth taking 2 euros to climb the ladder that takes you outside onto the 1 foot wide walkway that surrounds the bell. The view of the town and surrounding countryside is well worth the 2 euro and the schlep up.

Walk on the Fortification Wall

The town is surrounded by a high stone wall that has a covered walkway. There are numerous access points on the perimeter and from this 1.5 miles walk you will have yet another interesting vantage point of the town. There is no end to life-sized gingerbread houses with red tile roofs.

St. Jacob's Church

Very near the Burg Hotel and pretty much impossible to miss, a typical gothic church but with a couple of interesting things inside worth checking out. 1) the alter at the front of the church is carved and painted by a well known carver of medieval times; but walk around the backside to see up close the story of Jesus' last days. 2) the 5,500 pipes pipe organ - not old but incredible if you can hear it played.

Amsterdam

Restaurants

Marius

At Barentszstraat 243 (tel. 020-4227880) a bit off the beaten trail, you will find many fans on the web touting this restaurant's food and friendly format. The chef is Dutch but trained in French culinary arts. What I will remember of my experience at this restaurant is as follows: meeting Carlos and Brian there, having an intimate reunion in a cozy country-decorated place, great food (But can't remember what I ate) and a big bill at the end that can only be paid with a local bankcard or cash (the chef offered to give us a ride to the nearest ATM!).

Bottom line: will come again for a special occasion.

Lanskroon

Nearby the Amsterdam Historisch Museum (see below) this little bakery sells something called a Hopjes Wafel, which is like a thin crispy cookie sandwich filled with honey caramel.

Bottom line: a good after-museum tea and snack and a friendly cat to greet you.

Balthazar's Keuken

Off the Prinsengracht, this restaurant has a set menu around 30 euros (not including drinks) and has limited tables but friendly service and very good food. I've been twice and would go again. The food is sort of French/Dutch and offers a meat and fish main dish choice.

Bottom line: small, friendly, good food.

Cafe Winkel

Many say this place serves the best appeltaart in Amsterdam. I have to admit I haven't tried any better (so far..). It's served with slagroom (whipped cream). The Jordaan Saturday fleamarket and foodmarket is right outside. In summer there are picnic tables set up to accommodate the hoards who come for their apple pie.

Bottom line: Mmmmmm

Supper Club

A restaurant/bar/nightclub (and bedroom)...where you reserve a 'bed' on which you and friends will spend your evening eating and drinking. Servers are also performers and after dinner the venue is opened to the public as a night club. This is definitely a one-time experience for me but is a fun evening out for a big group.

Bottom line: a grown-up's night out, maybe getting a tad tired?

Pancakes! Amsterdam

One of the Dutch specialties is pancakes and in Amsterdam there are plenty of places to try to the traditional flat panekeuken. At this small restaurant I had the best American-style pancakes I've ever eaten - I think maybe they put a little heroin in the batter as I couldn't stop eating them and ended up eating off of everyone else's plate.

Bottom line: great place for a delicious breakfast on a street full of cute shops.

Pubs and Bars

De Wetering

On Weteringstraat 37 (just off the Prinsengracht) this 'brown bar' is cozy, very local and warmed by a nice fireplace. My favorite brown bar in Amsterdam.

Bottom line: authentic 17th century pub with fireplace.

Mini Bar

On Prinsengracht canal, this place's gimmick is that it is totally self service, where each group gets a key to a mini bar and drinks are tallied up at the end of the visit. There are about 30 mini-bars along one wall, with groovy music playing and spacey images floating on the opposite wall. We started our night here at 9:30 and were the only ones in the place - then got busy around 10:30 as we were on to the next place.

Bottom line: a fun gimmick - let's see how long it lasts. Could use some chips and chocolate bars in the mini-bar though...

Marquee

This bar/restaurant has a bartender that is on speed or happy pills or possibly both. He also makes a cocktail called the Thriller. Something like a long island ice tea but with a hollowed out half of a passion fruit shell floating on top with a shot of Barcardi 151 and grenadine and set aflame as it's delivered to your table. Very chic, modern, dark ambiance, nice soundtrack.

Bottom line: if my description of Thriller leaves you confused, worth a visit to see what I'm talking about.

Wynand Fockink

Not a kinky spot in the red light district, rather a great old producer of specialty liqueurs that can be tasted in their 17th century pub next door to the 'factory'. This place is right near the Begijnhof (see below) and I HIGHLY recommend a visit for something truly unique. You can also bring home a bottle of one their many flavors as a souvenir or gift.

Bottom line: makers of unique liqueurs since before the U.S. was founded!

Sites

Amsterdam Historisch Museum

Not far off the Dam Square in the center of Amsterdam, this fantastic museum charts the long history of the city in a manageable and interesting way. I could have spent 5 hours in here with all the interesting artifacts and vignettes on display.

Bottom line: after Anne Frank and Van Gogh, this could be next on your list.

Vondelpark, Westerpark

For great runs, jogs, walks, or bike rides I recommend these parks. Vondelpark is smaller and busier but has a nice loop that can be run twice around in about 45 minutes or so. Westerpark enormous, has a more natural landscaping and longer trails. In both parks you'll find eateries we've tried and both are nice locations to hang out for a sunny afternoon.

Bottom line: famous parks of Amsterdam after you've had enough of canals and cute shops.

Begijnhof

This is where widowed women were given shelter back in old times and is a peaceful 'secret' place in the heart of Amsterdam. Worth a quick look at no charge. Women are still living here.

Bottom line: yet another bit of Amsterdam's interesting history.

Willet-Holthuysen Mansion

On the Herengracht canal you can visit this amazing mansion filled with original furnishings and see how a wealthy Dutch family lived. The home was left by the family to the city of Amsterdam specifically to be set up as a museum.

Bottom line: well cared-for mansion with original furnishings makes a great house tour.

Our Lord in the Attic Church

When Catholics were being persecuted in Amsterdam they built a hidden church in a 17th century building in the red light district of Amsterdam. Now I see they are doing some restoration so double check the status before you visit. But you'll see here another 'Anne Frank' - like space which reveals another facet of Amsterdam's past.

Bottom line: visit this check off 2 boxes on your Amsterdam visit: this and the red light district.

Brussels

Introduction to Brussels

After three years living in Brussels I am still discovering great things to see, do, and eat in this town. As many will attest, Brussels is a pretty subtle place, where the average tourist may wonder what the 'big deal' is apart from the amazing Grand Place and a few other less grand attractions.

Here are some reviews on various attractions and eateries with more to come as we continue our life here in Belgium. For our Brussels mates, please comment on your suggestions or feel free to disagree with my assessments!

Restaurants

La Canne en Ville - (French/Belgian) in Ixelles about 2 mins walk from Place Brugman. This is my new favorite local restaurant which somehow we hadn't discovered yet after 3 years here even though it's only 10 mins from our front door. Here you will find a former meat market transformed into a cozy restaurant (in business since 1983 by the same lovely owner). Mel and I enjoyed a 3 course meal for 39 euros efficiently served up. The dame blanche dessert nearly pushed me over the edge.

Up North - (Scandinavian) located just off the Grand Place this small but tidy place has a friendly Norwegian chef and a great menu full of seafood options (trout cooked in sour cream!). We sampled a couple of varieties of acquavit with our meal rather than having wine.

Le Varietes - (Belgian) located in Place Flagey in Ixelles near the Ixelles ponds is taking decor cues from the art deco era building in which it is housed. Known for the rotisserie, they also serve the usual Belgian specialties.

Nuetnigenough - (Belgian) On Rue du Lombard 25 in the center, this venue has inviting art nouveau windows and an warm atmosphere. I would not say the food is the reason to come, but for a cheap meal, not bad. Seafood lasagna is good but anything stewed looks a pile of c**p on the plate and tastes just okay. Some reviewers on tripadvisor say the soup is good...

Ecco - (Italian) in Ixelles just off Place du Chatelain is this 'sympa' corner Italian where the chef and staff welcome you as you enter and the modern decor and good food at a reasonable price make for a nice weekday dinner. Across the street is a sister restaurant that is also Italian but traditional red check tablecloths and red sauces - also inexpensive and a good standard.

Gaudron - (brunch) in Place Brugman in Ixelles, this highly designed gourmet shop and restaurant offer a great weekend brunch in a cool and efficient setting. We've tried nearly all the several brunch options on the square and this one is our pick.

The Wood - (brunch) in La Bois de la Cambre tucked away is this former livestock barn that was converted to an old-on-the-outside, modern-on-the-inside bar/restaurant. Brunch here is buffet style and offers a diverse selection of interesting and standard options. After brunch, walk it off in the park.

Nea Genia - (Greek tapas) in Ixelles on Chausee de Waterloo not far from the Chatelain delivers an excellent array of Greek specialties on small plates meant to be shared (or not!). Very friendly and helpful staff in a more modern but cozy setting.

Sites

La Monnaie Opera Hall Tour - in the center of town, the opera hall offers a tour on Saturday at noon for a small fee. Our friends invited us to join them and, thanks to a terrific tour guide, we got the insider look at how an opera comes together. Fascinating and educational.

Hotels

Tenbosch House - (Ixelles) owned/operated by my Swedish colleague and her Belgian husband, this new hotel is about to open in April 2010 and, by the looks of the web-site, will be an oasis in an already lovely neighborhood. Congratulations Catarina and Cedric!

London

Restaurants

Les Trois Garcons

While dining here recently I got to meet deux of the trois garcons, as they are mates with a friend of mine with whom I was travelling. This restaurant is in Shoreditch, about a 10 min walk from the Liverpool Street station and, as the web-site explains, it has a sumptuous interior almost distracting from the food (which was also very good). Reservations definitely needed and expect a fairly large bill at the end of it all.

Bottom line: like eating inside the World of Interiors magazine.

Cecconi's

Italian, I'd say Tuscan oriented, menu with very good everything: service, food, and elegant interior. Not a trendy place but no bada-bing either. Between Green Park and Picadilly tube stations on a quiet street.

Bottom line: for a guaranteed excellent dining experience.

l'Absinthe

One of Margot and Iain's locals in Primrose Hill (above Regent's Park). If I lived in the neighborhood it would be my local too. Super friendly, French staff, and well-prepared French standards for a reasonable price and some great burgundy wines available.

Bottom line: if in Primrose Hill and hankoring for French this is the spot.

The Wolseley

On Picadilly next to the Ritz Hotel this place is a classic old bank that's been converted to a place where ladies do lunch. But also a place I would go for a weekend brunch. They do serve a high tea here and whether here or at Harvey Nic's I would recommend doing a high tea at least once as a tourist.

Bottom line: enjoy the vaulted interior and a feeling that you really are in London.

Daphne's

Michael and I had dinner one night here after spinning with Margot at L.A. Fitness in South Kensington, just around the corner. The restaurent serves perfect Italian food, great cocktails and professional service. Not cheap but a very nice evening out with a guaranteed great experience.

Shopping

Selfridges

This is probably the only department store in the world where Stove Top Stuffing and Dolce & Gabbana are within 25 feet of each other. (yes, my boss did buy boxed stuffing here for Thanksgiving). I especially like that Uniqlo and TopShop have spaces in here and the people watching is extraordinary.

Bottom line: a great jumping off point for a day of shopping in London.

Liberty of London

Another department store but a bit quirky and on a totally different (and smaller) scale. Beautiful things, great men's section (albeit above my price point), an old-world feeling in the center of London. This is a shop I really enjoy. Just nearby is the only Banana Republic in Europe by the way.

Bottom line: unique to London and a very special shop.

Sites

Hyde Park

I recently had the very good fortune of staying in a friend's apartment in Knightsbridge about 50 steps from one of the gates into the park. As weather permitted, I went for a nice long run through and around the park and experienced the many nooks and crannies. The organic way the meadows are left to grow is astonishing given this is in the middle of London.

Bottom line: a VERY long walk or a great run.